Sunday, March 17, 2024

Good Food and Good Friends

 Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: May 4, 2022

We all slept late that morning and then had delicious apple turnovers with our coffee. A light rain was falling as we left for Fleury-les-Aubrais. Vincent picked us up at the station and drove us to his place. It was too wet to be outside in his beautiful garden, so we entertained ourselves inside. We had managed to coax Wailers out of hiding, but the beautiful cat was still quite wary of me and Craig. 

Vincent with his beautiful cat, Wailers.

Vincent had put together a delicious lunch of curry chicken which was served over couscous with golden raisins and chickpeas to sprinkle on top. There were some pan-fried sausages and a baguette as well. It was accompanied by a delightful red wine. After lunch, Desmond, Agathe, and Arthus brought out their instruments and played some music for us. Des played his viola with Agathe on her violin. They did a couple of duets which were very good. Arthus entertained us with his cornet. After that, we all played a long game of Mexican train. Around 4:00, Vincent served more gorgeous pastries which we all exclaimed over. They were almost too pretty to eat! 

What would you choose?

We returned home at 6:30. Desmond and Craig set up the patio table and chairs down in the courtyard where we welcomed Desmond’s old neighbor, Mathieu. We ordered burgers and fries from the Boucherie des Burgers around the corner. Since Covid, they offered only carry-out, but they were quite busy. It was a great meal and we enjoyed catching up with Mathieu.

Shopping and Stuff

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal:  May 3, 2022 

It was a beautiful morning, and we enjoyed a tasty breakfast of coffee, fresh raw milk, and bread still warm from the bakery, topped with cashew butter and jam or honey. And the morning would not be complete without cuddles from Azur.

Craig and Desmond set out for a long walk along the Loire. It was to be an eight mile jaunt, which would have been too much for me. After they left, I decided to go on my own little excursion. I took the tram to Place D’Arc where I did a little shopping. When my back began to hurt, I found a quiet table at Paul and ordered a café crème and a couple of mini beignets. I sent some messages to family back home before continuing  with my shopping.


I love these beautiful shopping carts.

I appreciated the convenience of the tram as it delivered me to Halles Châtelet, where I always enjoy a stroll through the many little food shops there. Colorful displays of macarons invite shoppers to choose their favorite flavors, or perhaps  discover a new taste sensation. I paused at the cheese shop, overwhelmed by the variety. Across the aisle, a produce stand offered fresh fruits and vegetables. Fresh pasta and bulk olive oil were available in the next aisle, and of course there was a wine shop, a butcher shop, a deli, and numerous other little stores. Across the wide hall are boutiques, gift shops, shoe stores, and much more.




I bought some linen napkins for Desmond as a little thank you gift. He always goes out of his way to insure that we have a wonderful vacation. I walked the rest of the way home, as it was just over the bridge. For dinner that evening, Des made a delicious zucchini-butter pasta topped with toasted pine nuts and sunflower seeds. Later, the three of us  went to meet up with Jeff for drinks. The bar was a popular place for billiards, and after a drink the guys all decided to play. I enjoyed watching while sipping on a refreshing Monaco. It was good to see Jeff again and we enjoyed hearing about his recent travels. He enjoys backpacking and has spent weeks at a time wandering all over France. When we left the bar, the evening was pleasantly cool and we thoroughly enjoyed the walk home.

Desmond and Craig enjoy a game of pool.


Monday, September 4, 2023

Kitchen Shopping

 Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Monday, May 2 2022

Mmmm, fresh, warm bread for breakfast. With some Breton butter of Desmond's delicious jams and spreads, it was a great way to start the day. After breakfast, Des needed to run over to Vincent's place and pick up the flowers we had forgotten to bring home the night before. Craig and I loaded up all of our dirty clothes into a wheeled cart and headed to a nearby laundromat. We had a lovely view of the Loire from the front windows as we waited for our laundry. We had brought along our iPads and played a game of Scrabble. Before long, we were back home, putting our clean clothing away. 

A laundromat with a view

When Desmond returned, we headed out again to go to IKEA. After a long tram ride, we arrived and decided to have lunch there before looking around. It's hard to resist those Swedish meatballs! On Sunday, we had been to see the apartment that Des was in the process of purchasing, and were very impressed with it. We especially like the two balconies! Desmond had been planning his new kitchen, and we wandered through IKEA looking at cabinets and tile colors. I like the way the store is arranged, with little vignettes showing complete, well decorated rooms. It was fun to stroll through the "rooms" while Desmond took measurements and looked at samples. Before leaving, we picked up a package of their delicious chocolate dipped oatmeal cookies.

I love this table with the hearts!

That evening, Desmond had meditation group, so Craig and I relaxed and read our books. For dinner, we had an easy meal of a fresh baguette with two kinds of cheese, carrot sticks, pistachios, and the yummy cookies from IKEA. 

Craig cuddles with Azur


Friday, May 26, 2023

Gardens, Games, and Good Food

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: May 1 2022 

We had a treat for breakfast that morning. Des made chocolate chip pancakes, which we slathered in Breton butter and drizzled with strawberry-maple syrup. Delicious! After breakfast we straightened the house while waiting for Vincent to pick us up. We were looking forward to returning to his home for a barbecue. The weather couldn’t have been more perfect and it was great to be in Vincent’s beautiful garden again. 

Such a pretty place to linger!

Desmond brought out the charcoal grill, and he took charge of cooking the Toulouse sausages and the chicken and veggie kebabs. The sizzling food smelled wonderful as the patio table was set with fresh baguettes and two lovely cheeses. One was a goat cheese that was beautifully wrapped in oak leaves, the other was a mild cow’s milk cheese. There was a tray of several different flavors of mustard for the sausages. I really liked the sesame seed mustard! Agathe had been busy in the kitchen, where she made some tasty cookies which we enjoyed for dessert with fresh coffee. It was a fun and delicious meal. 

Desmond and Craig at the grill

Vincent brought out his collection of heart-shaped stones, which I enjoyed sorting through. I love finding heart-shaped things and have my own small collection. Vincent presented us with some sprigs of lily of the valley. I love their sweet fragrance. May 1 is Fete du Muguet, or Labour Day, in France and giving these lovely flowers is a tradition dating from the 16th century. They are said to bring luck for the coming year. 


After a while, we all engaged in a fun game called Molkky. It was played with wooden pegs set up on the lawn. Using a throwing stick, we tried to knock down the numbered pegs. The score for each round was determined in a couple of different ways. We played in teams and it was a lively competition, with lots of laughter. That was such a fun and relaxing day.

Vincent sets up the Molkky pegs



Wednesday, April 19, 2023

A Picnic on the Loire

Pages from Jan's Travel Journal: Saturday, April 30 2022

Mmmmm, hazelnut pastries for breakfast! That was a delicious start to the day. A picnic on the Loire was planned, and we set about preparing food. Des made pasta salad, while I cut up carrots and red peppers into sticks for dipping into Desmond’s homemade hummus. We packed a fresh baguette and some jars of pate and terrine. 

It was a short stroll to the river and then a careful walk across an old stone spillway which led to an island in the middle of the river. There were lots of trees and bushes covering the sandy expanse. Stones and shells were scattered everywhere. The weather was perfect, with sunny skies and a gentle breeze. We placed our things beneath a tree and then saw Vincent and his children crossing the spillway to join us. Before long, Chris and his young son Robin showed up.
 
One of the lovely views on the Loire
Everyone had contributed food and drinks, which we placed onto a large blanket. In addition to what we had supplied, there were several kinds of chips, guacamole, sausages, cucumber spears, cherry tomatoes, cheese spread, sardines, wine, beer, mint lemonade, cola, and a large bottle of water flavored with fruit syrup. Vincent had brought a special surprise which he hid beneath a tree, saying it was for later. The leisurely picnic was very enjoyable, with the beautiful views and great company. 

Our Loire picnic feast

A peaceful view from our
 little island on the Loire
After lunch, most of the group played soccer or tossed a frisbee. I searched for shells and stones, and when I found a striped heart-shaped rock I tried to pick it up only to discover that it was just the tip of a much larger stone. I later found a few small heart-shaped stones which I collected as keepsakes. I walked with Agathe through some shallow water over to a tiny island. She found some vines hanging from one of the trees like a swing and we chatted while she swayed back and forth. Splashing our way back through the water, I stepped in some thick mud and would have lost my balance if it weren’t for Agathe's outstretched hand. 

Loire river stones

Several of us sat on the warm sand and watched Vincent, Robin, and Arthus play soccer for a while. When it was time for the surprise Vincent had brought, we all gathered around on the blanket. He placed a couple of pastry boxes in front of us and opened them, revealing the beautiful treats inside. Someone cut them into halves so that we could enjoy a pastry buffet. I wondered if French people take those delights for granted? They are always such artful surprises, as beautiful as they are tasty. 

How to choose?

Desmond and Vincent on the Loire
                                                 
Another lovely view

After that amazing dessert, we played, relaxed, or searched for some more pretty stones. Toward evening, everyone packed up their things and then walked carefully back over the spillway to return to their homes. We were tired after the festivities, but it had been an ideal day and after nibbling a few leftovers, we played a game and then went to bed early.

Friday, March 10, 2023

La Baule, France

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Friday, April 29 2022

We awoke in our Airbnb in La Baule, looking forward to another day of sightseeing. Des went out early to find a bakery and brought home some beautiful pastries which we devoured with our coffee and then set out for the beach. 

Des enjoyed this beautiful mango
 and passionfruit croissant.

Le Croisic had been a rustic, laid back seaside village, but it was apparent that LaBaule was much larger and ritzier. The long esplanade on the beachfront was lined with posh hotels and boutiques. The tide was out, exposing a huge expanse of beach. There were quite a few people about searching for shells, splashing in the cold water, or playing games on the sand. 

The La Baule - Escoublac train station


A sculpture in front of the train station
 in La Baule, France

Colorful buildings in La Baule

These looked like fun!

Craig and Desmond on the beach
at La Baule, France
We wandered around on the beach for a while. It was such a beautiful day and we tried to think of something to do that wouldn’t require a lot of walking, since my lower back was still bothering me. I wondered aloud if it would hurt for me to ride a bike. Craig and Des were surprised and a bit skeptical, but it really sounded like a fun thing to do. They had both been so sweet and tolerant of my back issues and I really wanted to do this for them as much as for myself. Desmond found a nearby bike rental shop called La Baule Bike and I made Craig and Des promise that if I was unable to ride, they would go ahead while I found something else to do. I hadn’t been on a bike in five or six years, but after a wobbly start I found that I could do it! It did not seem to be hurting my back, so off we went. The bicycles were expensive ones, with large, comfortable tooled leather seats and roomy baskets. The owner of the bike shop, who spoke excellent English, had given us directions to a bike path that runs along Brittany's Côte Sauvage for miles. First, we had to navigate traffic on the city streets, which was a bit scary. But soon we were pedaling along in some gorgeous residential neighborhoods. After a while, we reached the bike path. 

We return to our bikes after lunch.

A scenic break just off the bike
 trail on the wild coast
There were many restaurants along the beachfront, so we decided to have lunch. After looking at the exorbitant prices for food + view, we decided to go a block further inland and soon found a burger shack where we had a decent meal with no view, but at one-third the cost. We began cycling along the wild coast and were delighted with the incredible scenery. The paved path was wide and well maintained. We took our time, enjoying the stunning views at every bend. Some of the rocky outcrops had steps cut into the stone which led down to the beach, and in some cases led straight into the water. We wondered if at one time they were used as access to old jetties or simply to scramble onto a boat. If there had been jetties there, they were long gone. We admired some of the homes along the coast and thought what wonderful views the occupants must have. We rode for miles, taking breaks to rest and for Craig and Des to scramble around on the rocky beaches. 

Craig and Des enjoyed clambering
on the rocky beach along the wild coast.


The views from the homes along
the coast must be spectacular!

The journey back to town was frightening at times, as we had to ride in the evening traffic. I’m sure that on one of the roundabouts, the occupants of the car next to me could hear me muttering “omigod, omigod, omigod!” as I maneuvered around the circle. After we had returned our bikes, we headed once again for the train station to board the 6:00 PM train for Orléans. We had two connections on the way and arrived home just before dark. It had been a great couple of days!

Sunday, January 22, 2023

From Nantes to Le Croisic

Pages From Jan's Travel Journal: Thursday, April 28 2022

We definitely needed our jackets that morning, as a chill breeze was blowing. Des wanted to treat us to his favorite Nantes bakery, one of which was located in passage Pommeraye. After a quick cup of coffee in the apartment, we set out. The covered passageway was constructed between 1843 and 1845 by Louis Pommeraye. He envisioned a luxurious three-tiered indoor shopping center with shops, cafes, and even apartments which were located on the uppermost level. It is an architectural feast for the eyes, as you stroll past renaissance sculptures, Corinthian columns, and ornate wrought iron railing. We were a bit too early for the shops to be open and were disappointed that even the bakery was closed. Just seeing the luxurious shopping arcade was a treat, though. I enjoyed peering into the shop windows. One store specialized in nothing but sardines! There were dozens of varieties in artfully decorated tins and gift boxes. We also saw a Hermès shop and a large sporting and outdoor shop which had cleverly displayed their products.

Inside the Passage Pommeraye in Nantes
            

the Passage Pommeraye,
a shopping arcade in Nantes, France

On we went, toward an exciting attraction in Nantes - a giant steampunk elephant! We did stop at a bakery for some breakfast treats. I chose an “elephant”, which was a pastry swirled with chocolate, cinnamon, and Biscoff crumbles. It was fantastic! We carried our treats to an area near the elephant's barn and found a picnic table at which to sit. We were disappointed to learn that we wouldn’t be able buy tickets for the elephant ride, but we were still excited to know that we could watch as it trundled around the area. It had been reserved for groups of schoolchildren on a field trip. We were able to ride the enormous steampunk carousel which consisted of three levels of marine animals that could be ridden on and controlled with levers and foot pedals. Honestly, I think it was even better than the elephant! We delightedly explored all three floors, pausing to watch the action and the happy faces of children and their teachers as they rode such creatures as crabs, a giant squid, huge fish, and even a sea serpent. The entire place was filled with happy screams and shrill laughter as the kids raced around to get in line for their favorite creatures. The three of us chose to ride together on the sea serpent and I got to operate his mouth and the smoke he breathed out. We were laughing as much as the children! It was the most fun and unique carousel I had ever experienced. 

  
Want to ride a sea serpent?

The Steampunk Carousel in Nantes, France
                                 



Fun for everyone!

After that, we watched the huge elephant approach the loading area next to the carousel. Crowds of people surrounded it, taking photos and videos. Suddenly, the elephant began to spray water from its trunk onto the crowd! People scattered, laughing and screaming but most of them going back for more. We had moved to a safe distance from which we could watch and take photos without getting wet. When the huge mechanical creature was loaded with people, it began to walk slowly around the area. We followed for a while, glad that we had an opportunity to enjoy the elephant in motion. 

Craig and Desmond are standing
beside one leg of the Steampunk Elephant.

Watch out, or you'll be sprayed with water!

One of the sinking buildings in Nantes, France

We then made our way back to our apartment to pack and head to the train station. The ride to Le Croisic wasn’t long, and we soon began to see the salt farms in the marshes near town. We had wanted to stay a night in Le Croisic, but even though we had made plans and reservations many months before, there was nothing available. That didn’t stop us from enjoying the rest of the day there. The little train station wasn’t far from the beach. We began walking, scenting the salt air as we went past picturesque old homes and ivy-covered walls. The little town was very pretty, especially down by the harbor. There were lots of boats tied up, gently bobbing by the quay. 

Desmond and Craig climb to the lookout tower.

The salt marshes outside LeCroisic, France,
as seen from the train.
                                 


Boats on the quay in Le Croisic

As it was lunchtime, Desmond was taking us to a crêperie. There were lots of shops and restaurants along the shore but we continued on until we reached Desmond’s favorite. Though it was very crowded, the proprietor found us some seats near the corner. The decor in the restaurant was lovely, with antiques and cute memorabilia everywhere. We ordered cider and galettes, which arrived surprisingly quickly. They were fantastic! Mine was just the basic cheese and lardons, but it was very flavorful. Of course, we had to order dessert crepes. The salted caramel was sublime. 

Inside the creperie

Creperie Tante Germaine in Le Croisic
                                 

After that delightfully satisfying lunch, we began walking down to the beach. The weather was great, with us needing only a light jacket. The beach was beautiful, though the section we were on was covered quite liberally with shells and pebbles. Desmond spread out a blanket and then we went hunting for cowries and sea glass. The sound and smell of the sea was a pleasant accompaniment. Craig and Des decided to go for a walk down the beach while I remained behind, perfectly content with the view. A couple of women who were obviously just out for a stroll came near me. They had a small, fluffy white dog with them. He scampered around quite happily by their feet, but then I saw him raise his head and begin sniffing the air. He started down the beach, trotting with intent. He was honing in on something, and soon he flopped down and begin rolling happily. Probably on a dead fish or something. Suddenly one of the women cried out, “non, non, non, non, non! She ran to the pup and lifted him gingerly by his harness, scolding him all the while. She then began dunking him in the sea. It was all I could do to keep from laughing out loud. 

A lighthouse at Le Croisic, France

Des and Craig on the beach at Le Croisic
                                 

When Craig and Desmond returned from their walk, we lounged on the beach for a while longer and then gathered our things. We walked slowly back toward town, where we stopped at a waterfront cafe for a drink. We then found a wonderful bakery and each chose a couple of fresh, buttery kougin amaan in a variety of flavors. The patisserie had many enticing treats displayed and it was all so tempting! Soon, we returned to the train station and headed back the way we had come. We didn’t travel far, but got off at La Baule. It is a resort town on the coast and before long we had settled in to another cute AirBnB.  By then, we were tired and hungry. Our apartment was in a residential area and there were no restaurants or cafes nearby, so we ate our delicious pastries and then called it a night. 

The pretty train station at La Baule, France